Western Red Cedar and Redwood are the two most commonly used woods for pergolas, aside from pressure-treated wood. However, there are a few key differences between the two. Secondly, Redwood can be found with a larger grade variety and its grain tends to be more on the subtle side compared to the more rustic and pronounced grain of clear WRC.
However, depending on where you are located, you may find these to be rather expensive options with limited availability, which can be very frustrating.
Just be sure to check local pricing and availability before you commit to this type of wood for your pergola. For diehard wood lovers, tropical hardwood is a hard choice to beat for a real wood pergola. Tropical hardwoods are widely known for being ideal for exterior projects i. The most common tropical hardwood species include teak, ipe, mahogany and rosewood. In addition to their beauty, tropical hardwoods are sought after for their density and resilience to the elements.
Janka ratings relate directly to the density or hardness of a wood. The harder the wood, the stronger and more resilient it will be. To put tropical hardwoods into perspective, consider that pressure-treated Southern Yellow Pine has a Janka rating of and Redwood comes in at Ipe also labeled as Brazilian Walnut has a Janka rating of over 3, All tropical hardwoods have a 1, or higher Janka, while many are into the 2, numbers and higher.
Well, the three main issues are availability, cost and eco-friendliness or lack thereof. Tropical hardwoods can be difficult to source and even after you find a source you might be shocked to find just how expensive some species can be. A pergola made of a tropical hardwood will be 3x or more expensive than a high-grade Redwood pergola and the price difference is even more drastic compared to a PT pergola.
Eventually, however, all timber weathers to a silvery-grey after several years of outdoors exposure. These transparent preservatives give your pergola some a handy bit of additional weather resistance. Treating your pergola is best done during a dry season when moisture and humidity are at a low, ideally every two-to-four years. Of course, make sure to clean down your pergola first.
After a hose down, any stubborn dirt and stains can be removed with a mild soap, water and bristle brush. Of course, make sure to remove any debris that has accumulated near the grooves.
In the case of mildew, use a combination of mild bleach and water. After hosing down again, make sure the pergola is completely dry before you apply any preservatives.
When planning for their garden, many people are drawn towards pressure-treated wood. Usually, these woods provide more upfront cost savings than one of the timbers listed above.
A high-quality pergola, made of the right naturally-durable timber species, can give you many decades of service — negating the need for pressure-treated wood. Our pergola kits are created from high-quality European Green Oak, with all components precision CNC-machined, mortise-and-tenon jointed as well as grooved and shaped.
The rafters and purlins will sit on top, and the entire structure should be designed to integrate in a logical aesthetic fashion to any nearby structure a roof, in the project shown. Tighten a washer and nut over the end of each bolt. Usually the rafters are slightly smaller than the girders and are installed vertically, bridging over the girders at 90 degrees and overhanging each side with the decorative rafter tails. The rafters bridge over the girders at 90 degrees.
Spacing of the rafters will vary according to your visual preference and the size of the pergola. Spacing the rafters 16 to 20 inches apart is common. The most important rule in spacing is to keep the distance consistent between all the rafters. Install the front and rear rafters first, fastening them to the face of the support posts above the girder.
With the top and rear rafters in place, use a reciprocating saw to cut the top of the support posts off flush with the top of the rafters. Install all remaining rafters spaced evenly between the front and rear rafters. Install each rafter perfectly square and vertical to the girders, and toe-nail the rafters onto the girders two nails at each joint.
Cut the posts flush with the top of the rafters. Toe-nailed over the rafters, the two outermost purlins on the sides of the pergola are fastened so they align on top of the outermost girders. The remaining purlins are installed with equal spacing between the two side purlins.
Note that the purlin layer is an optional decorative enhancement that works best on large pergolas. Staining and sealing the wood with a waterproof finish is a smart way to add your color tone of choice while also protecting the wood from water and insect damage. Cedar and redwood have natural preservative oils that help protect from insect infestation and rot, but treated lumber is notably less expensive.
Treated lumber, however, should definitely be covered with a protective finish. The question then concerns when to treat lumber, and the answer lies with how wet the lumber is. The treatment of lumber with waterborne preservatives leaves moisture in the wood.
This is why fresh PT lumber often arrives wet from the supplier, and the moisture can impede the penetration of stains and paints. For best performance of paint and stain coatings, allow the treated wood to dry for 2 to 4 weeks prior to application.
Toe-nail the rafters to the girders using two nails at each joint. Although simple in design, building a pergola does require carpentry experience, some reliable power tools, and smart decisions in the planning stage. Thinking ahead and mentally walking through every phase of the project will help ensure success, longevity, and a backyard enhancement you can proudly show off to your neighbors.
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